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| Casey Niggemyer belays Joel Unema on Iron Sharpens Iron 5.13- Photo Blake McCord |
The Edge. Climbers depend on 'the edge'. Like the crisp rubber edge on a fresh pair of shoes, tight as skin, and just out of the box, the mental edge is essential to climbing success. It overwhelms any other factor in determining my personal climbing success. I may be exhausted, sleep-deprived, out of shape, 20 pitches in, but if I feel on my game, I can float technical sequences and fight through the burliest efforts. When we feel light, strong, and skilled, our edge is sharp and nothing can stop us.
That edge climbers rely on can dull with time; too much time off, insufficient rest, and overwhelming fear can chip away at the sharp edge, dulling and slowing progress. For those familiar with the Bible, Proverbs 27:17 may be a familiar reference, and for those unacquainted with it, these words likely have a recognizable ring.
"As iron sharpens iron, so one person sharpens another"
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| Casey Niggemyer finding the jams at Volunteer Canyon. photo Blake McCord |
This lesson holds true in many aspects of life. As social beings, people need interaction and accountability with others to maintain a healthy and effective life. As climbers, we need others to support, encourage, and push us in order to grow and stay sharp.
I've written about the climbs that challenge, the areas that inspire, and the experiences that test, but more important to me than any of these are the friends who keep my edge sharp. Over the past few weeks, I began revisiting an area that has seen limited development, but beneath the loose blocks and lichen, holds considerable potential. JJ Schlick turned me on to a line at Volunteer Canyon, a thin gorgeous face split by twin thin seams. He mentioned that it looked hard and may be a good project for me. A tip from a friend, a gift from a fellow developer, iron drags across iron, and my interest and edge are piqued.
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| Carrie Albrecht questions her choice of climbing partners and their choices in fashion. Putting up with that 'stache? 5.13+ |
My initial encounter with the climb was with one of my most consistent, encouraging, and fun climbing partners, Carrie Albrecht! She belayed me on my initial efforts and reinforced in my mind the quality and worthiness of the pitch. A familiar friend and cherished companion scrapes a few more burrs off the steel, leaving it cleaner and sharper than before.
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| Casey Niggemyer at Volunteer Canyon. photo Blake McCord |
More attempts on the project, days of bolt-clipping and swimming at the Winslow Wall, and exploration of new lines in the canyon made up the next phase, time spent with Blake McCord and Casey Niggemyer. Blake shot excellent photos in challenging light, Casey belayed me with more patience than I deserved, and we all stoked the fires of psyche as we gazed through binoculars, rapped down steep faces, and talked about the lines of the future. John Gould and I sampled summer-season hard sport climbs, both well-traveled classics and forgotten gems. Days spent enjoying the company and energy of these and other good climbing partners have kept me strong and psyched. The knife was sharp, the edge was straight and almost ready.
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| Mat Greco, doing what he does best on a project on NorAZ Limestone Photo Blake McCord |
When Mat Greco offered to come out to Volunteer and belay me on the project, it was on. Summer heat was in full effect and the forecast was for near-record highs, so we planned a dawn-patrol mission. We rallied early and reached the cliff with the thermometer hovering around sending. After a quick warmup and re-acquaintance with the rock, my fingers dug into the crimps, the pinky-locks bit into my skin and nails, the Mad Rock Science Friction rubber conformed and held the micro-texture of the basalt, the well-honed edge sliced through my clutter and doubt, and I made the first ascent of Iron Sharpens Iron 5.13-.
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| Joel Unema on the FA of Iron Sharpens Iron 5.13- Photo Blake McCord |
The process of finding and cleaning the line was made easy by the work of JJ Schlick and Wade Forrest, and unlocking the sequences of opposing crimps, locks, and smears went quickly. It is a beautiful pitch; short, technical, powerful, but well within my abilities. The experience of putting up Iron Sharpens Iron was more about feeling the support and recognizing my need for encouraging and willing partners than sending a hard rock climb. The insecure and technical nature of the climbing and the short length of the crux makes a grade hard to assign, so take the rating as my initial estimate. Repeat ascents and time will tell and form a consensus.
My edge is sharp after this experience, de-burred, straightened, and honed by friends, now ready to carve deeper towards harder climbs and to the core of growth and learning.
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| Joel Unema sticks it on Iron Sharpens Iron 5.13- Photo Blake McCord |
Thanks to Blake McCord for the photos! Thanks to JJ and Wade for all of their work at Volunteer. Check out http://mountainproject.com/v/iron-sharpens-iron/108217029 for the lowdown on the route (It needs a repeat!). I'm hoping to learn from the support of my community and do what I can to sharpen the edges of my friends and partners!
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